Thursday 13 September 2012

The beauty within

I want Fort to have pride in Uganda- not just a sense of a country that failed him.  Since I have been here, I am seeing a side of Uganda that is tough, and I am watching it through these orphans' eyes, which in turn skews my impression of this country. It's not the people or the country that hurts my heart, but the need. I am inspired daily by the strength and beauty here, and want to be sure to share it and remember it so, as my sister mentioned, I can teach Fort that there is more to this country than heartbreak. 

Uganda is called "the Pearl of Africa". It is a country about the size of Oregon, and has some of the most varied and beautiful landscapes. To the south is Lake Victoria, the largest lake in Africa and the second largest freshwater lake in the world. To the west are the "mountains to the moon" or the Rwenzori mountains, which continue past Uganda to include Kilamonjaro. The equator cuts across its southern region, and temperatures are mild year round. It has so many beautiful and "unspoilt" areas, that it is rather easy to make a safari and see tons of animals in their natural habitats, including elephants, rhinos, hippos, giraffes, zebras. It is one of the premiere bird watching places in the world. It is also one of the few places in the world where you are able to track gorillas in the wild. 

Most of this amazing countryside is quite easy to explore. There are many touring ventures, yet the tide has not turned for tourism, and it is happily still reasonably wild.  I do not want to give up my time at the orphanage to go on any of these safaris, and I know Fort has not yet experienced the beauty in his country, so this is something we would love to do as a family when the kids are older. We plan to make at least one family trip back to Uganda- for the kids to see Fort's country. 

What I have experienced most are the beautiful people of this country. Yes,  there are those who baffle me and infuriate me, but the majority of Ugandans that I have met have been amazing. There is a kindness of spirit, a generosity of heart, and a warmth for fellow humans. This country has gone through such upheaval since its independence just 50 years ago, and still the citizens love her. They have been exposed to poverty and pain, but they are resilient. 

When Steve came over to meet me, I told him my interpretation of the people. As you walk down the road-the rare mzungu- the people passing you by look sternly at you. You almost have a sense of their disapproval. But then if you smile first, and say hello, their faces change so radically, so instantly. Immediately their mouths break onto a wide grin, their eyes crinkle up, and with utmost politeness, they greet you in English.

There was a man on the corner down from the orphanage who has a little stand where he makes chapatis. Chapatis are flat pan fried dough circles, almost like a puffed up tortilla or scallion pancake. The kids (and me!) love them. Most days I take Fort for a little walk down the road, and we watch the chapati man rolling dough into circles, then stretching them flat and spinning them around the burner.  Finally, the other day, I asked how much one was, thinking I'd finally get one for Fort the next day. The man insisted we take 2 even though I had no money on me ( I later paid him). 

I was walking down the road, when I slipped in the wet mud in my flip flops and fell down into the canals dug for runoff water. There were 2 men heading my way, and they both ran to me to assist me, in the ever-Ugandan way of apology. Sorry, sorry, our roads are not good for you. 

Another time, going for a walk with Fort, a young man came up to us, asking how we were doing. He looked Fort in the eyes and said, you are a good boy, eh?  And though this man seemed not to have much money, he took a small coin and gave it to Fort. 

Those who have little, still share. 

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